Friday, September 25, 2009

Friday flânerie

Today I really didn't have a plan in mind, but that's part of the appeal of my Fridays in Paris. It makes me feel like anything can happen.

I took a bus to the Bon Marché, because I wanted to check out their mercerie/droguerie (buttons, fabrics, yarns, needlwork, etc.) Marc informed me that true flâneurs would never consider shopping during their strolls, but I am just going to have to break with tradition on that one!

As soon as I got off the bus, I encountered all of these nuns. I certainly never see a sight like this in Utah...

The Bon Marché definitely did not disappoint. I can't believe I've never been to the top floor before! A very pleasing array of so many of the things that I love. They have about 5 walls of yarn. I bought some cashmere/alpaca in a bright pink.

I wandered through housewares as well and saw this clever chandelier made out of whisks (also one made of corkscrews).

I also wandered through accessories, admiring gloves, hats, and scarves that I can't imagine wearing right now. But I found muffatees!! I found a pattern for muffatees awhile back that I was really excited about, and I can't believe I saw several pairs in Paris! (Muffatees are long fingerless gloves/handwarmers that end in a big ruffle that pokes out from underneath your jacket or coat.) I really wanted to take a picture, but there was a very stern-looking employee hovering nearby that made it clear I should not do so. I also saw a knitted ruffled stole I would love to recreate.

Then I crossed the street to find something for lunch at La Grande Epicerie, which must be the largest gourmet food store ever. I really wanted to take some pictures in there, but since it was lunchtime, the crowds were staggering. I took my purchases to the park next door to eat:

A pear gorgonzola tart with walnuts. I also had fresh-pressed orange/grapefruit/raspberry juice, which was amazing.

A pistachio madeleine the size of my hand for dessert! I stayed in the park and read for over an hour, and the temperature was so pleasantly cool. I wasn't even hot and sweaty (as long as I stayed still, that is).

I then wandered on some of my favorite streets from our old neighborhood -- where we lived the first time we lived in Paris (Rue de Cherche-Midi, Boulevard Raspail, etc.).

I came across this wonderful brocante store (don't really know the translation for that, but it is kind of like flea market?). I lingered there for quite awhile, eventually buying some vintage tea towels and buttons.

I found another music rental store, quite apart from the music district, and went in to ask about cellos. They have full-size cellos for rent, and the deposit is considerably smaller than the other stores I checked with, so I may have found the place for Max. We won't be renting, however, until we get back from London.

Some other things that caught my eye:



The entrance to our former apartment. I was catching a return bus right in front of it, when who should walk out, but...

Madame Thébert, the lovely French grandmother who took such a liking to Max when he was just a toddler. She lived across the hall from us, and would invite us over often (such a rarity). She would give Max treats and let him splash in her bathroom sink, tying a towel around him so he wouldn't get all wet. She would bring me cherries because she knew I loved them. Her husband died during the time we lived there, which was over 12 years ago.

I was so surprised when she stepped out of the door and turned past me, I didn't have time to get my camera out until she was almost out of view (she's the woman walking with the cane). I never thought I would see her again. I wonder if she would remember us? She made our first Paris stay so much more pleasant.

14 comments:

Jill said...

Oh happy, happy day for you! I don't know where to start with this comment, but I'll try.

1. Fabulous pictures! I love the huge group of nuns, love the whisk chandelier, love the roses, love the yarn, love the brocante...okay I love all of them!

2. It makes me so happy to think of you sitting outside reading peacefully and not feeling rushed or overheated!

3. How wonderful that you got to see Madame Thébert again!

Rebekah said...

Will I ever have such experiences? I sincerely hope so...

shannon said...

Your photos just take my breath away...I gasped outloud when I saw the picture of the roses...

I'm glad you got to spend some time in the park with a book...in a non-over-heated way...
That juice sounds divine! I'm suddenly inspired to go out and buy a juicer so I can recreate that at home...

All of talk and photos of french food has me wanting to cook fancier dishes...my neighbor gave me a sampling of a L'Alsace Coq Au Riesling (Coq a vin) that she made last night at a cooking class...it was the best I've ever had (it calls for creme fraisch)....She copied off the recipe for me...I can't wait to make it...It will be in your honor... :)

It's so neat that you got a glimpse of your old friend...too bad you weren't able to talk with her...perhaps your paths will cross again...

patsy said...

I gasped too! at the photo of the red canisters...

I love this, just love it.

The tart mmmm- I am thinking of cooking better around here too. It's just so hot.

Your fridays are such a joy~

Bobbi said...

I just happened upon your blog and I must say...gorgeous photography. Color, color, color, love it!

jenn said...

Reading about your Fridays makes me feel calm and think about slowing down- not always a possibility, but an enjoyable feeling as I read at the very least.

I'm sad you did not talk to your old friend- I love angel women.

Robyn said...

Seriously, the photos are just amazing. Can't say enough about them. Makes me want to hop on a plane right now. Jill, I am SO jealous you get to go soon!

The food looks AWESOME! Why do Americans have such pathetic cuisine (to use the term loosely?!)

That's cool you got to see your old, sweet friend. Too bad you didn't get to chat. I'm sure she would remember you!

Michelle said...

I have a feeling you will be returning to Le Bon Marche very soon. How wonderful to have time to peruse! I loved the canisters, the nuns, the whisks and the construction..ummmm, don't know what to call them.

Kim Sue said...

what another wonderful Friday! the pictures are fabulous. I feel like I was along for your most enjoyable day.

Susan said...

Oh my ! That wisk chandelier is right up my alley!!So stylish and unique.

How fun to catch a glimpse of an old friend, so sad that you didn't get to speak to her! Perhaps you can take all the children for a little visit. She would be so surprised at how Max has become a young man. Sounds like you had a delightful day.

Charlotte said...

Oh, the yarn!! Emily just might die at the picture I think. And I'm excited to hear that you came across some good muffatees—Emily was disappointed with hers. I'm looking forward to reading more about your Friday Flaneries! It just sounds divine!

emily said...

Oh, man, that wall of yarn speaks to my heart. Actually, all of your photos do. And I'm really disappointed that the stern employee wouldn't let you take a picture of the muffatees. I would love to see some that would be good for more than a t-rex dress.

Amanda said...

The wall of yarn? The red canisters? The madelines as big as your hand? Oh...so wonderful!

I'm sure that woman would've remembered you! What a gift to see her again.

Denise said...

You definitely had my hopes up, only to be dashed by the stern employee banning photography of the muffatees.

As usual, your photos are stunning and make me feel like I'm on a bit of a guided tour. That yarn wall is amazing, indeed!

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