Wednesday, October 21, 2009

city of the dead

On Monday, we went to Père Lachaise cemetery. So many things are closed on Mondays, it can sometimes be a challenge, but the cemetery is open every day and we had good weather, to boot.

I was not able to visit the cemetery during our last stay due to my having undergone knee surgery less than 3 weeks before our departure. Happily, that is not the case this time! I love strolling around Père Lachaise -- it is so very different from any American cemetery I've seen, and it enormous, rather like a city within the city.

It has street signs and divisions (97 of them).

I love the moss growing on everything, and the rust. Most of the graves here are very old, and I enjoy the antiquity of it all. There are some new ones sprinkled in and they just look out of place to me, sadly lacking in charm.

Of course I had to take this picture. In France, Olivier is commonly used as a first name. People are always clarifying, making sure I understand they are asking for a family name when I say "Olivier."

If I had a sepulchre, I would want a door like this!

We didn't have a map this time. (They used to provide free maps at the entrances, but now they sell them at the metro exit.) We didn't see any famous graves, we just wandered in true flâneur fashion. You really can't take any wrong turns in a place like this.

Some of the monuments look like tiny cathedrals.

Some are for individuals, but most seem to be for families.

This was the first time I had seen evidence of a recent visit -- it's rare even to see other people in the cemetery at all.

Isn't it amazing to see plants forcing their way through the smallest cracks of stone?

Some monuments have sculptures atop. I hope never to be memorialized in this way!

Friendly neighbors!

I've had a love of ironwork since our first stay in Paris. It is so prevalent, so varied.

Have I mentioned how much I am loving Fall in Paris? Looooooving it.

We saw this man chiseling words into a new gravesite. Somehow, I thought this would be done elsewhere, before its installation. It was interesting to see him working right on site.

Monograms never fail to charm me.

We saw several graves like this one where it appears that someone was trying to escape!

Everything is more picturesque with Fall leaves strewn about.

It was a beautiful day to be outside, and my favorite kind of excursion: quiet, calm, unhurried. I think I may need to return soon.


**An embarrassing footnote: I am having major photo jealousy. Jill always takes wonderful photos, I know this, and usually I am just delighted by them. Here, however, we are going to the same places, taking pictures of the same things, and the contrast is endlessly frustrating to me (as hers are infinitely superior). I like to be the kind of person who delights in the talents and successes of others, and so this is rocking my world a bit.

Perhaps by putting this out there, I will be able to get past it? I need to adopt a mantra that Jill herself coined several years ago: The comparison is not valid at this time. The comparison is not valid at this time. The comparison is not valid at this time. Until I can internalize that, I may have to stop looking...**

20 comments:

Neighbor Jane Payne said...

Oh my goodness! I love this place you've shown us today. I love your commentary to the pictures. I love the pictures. (I find it unbelievable that you think your pictures inferior to anybody's.) Truly, it was like a world within a world. I also loved seeing the wings spread on that bird. How often do you ever get a shot like that?

Truly, if I ever got to Paris, this is one of the stops I'll make sure to go to. In the meantime, thank you for letting me see it.

Rebekah said...

This place is fascinating to me. I have to go there now.

I thought that man was curled up in the fetal position mourning over whoever was inside the grave.

I have never thought less of your pictures vs. Jill's, and vice versa. I think you have two different styles, so you're pictures speak differently. I think Jill has more of a photojournalistic style, and you have more of a vignette style. They are both great, in my opinion!

Rebekah said...

'your' pictures. Man alive...

Bond Girl 007 said...

Oh, my, now that is something I have not done in Paris before, soooo thank you soooo much again, for your insights, and wonderful chat, it shant go unnoticed--did see unique cementary's in New Orleans. I believe that what you are feeling with Jill is total admiration and your acknowledging it will be good, however, you my dearest cousine! have an incredible talent also, and your insights are somewhat different from Jill's and that is a good thing, that is what talent is all about, that is what l'art signifies....a unique view in one's ability to express self...I am in awe of your talent as with Jill's, two grandeur artists! and it is perfectly understandable d'etre jaloux de Jill that used in the most positive way, will only allow you to have depth in your talent....can you imagine being a painter and hanging out with monet? ahhhhhhhhhhhh.....oh by the way....the l'automne c'est magnifique.

love love love those stairs and the green of the trees!!!!

Bond Girl 007 said...

oh, did I tell you, that if I had a camera like yours or Jill's I would totally be in heaven!

Elizabeth said...

I think your being to hard on yourself your photos are wonderful!
I have been there once with a friend and we didn't see a soul the whole time. It was so great!

jenn said...

I'm happy to be buried in a pine box with a rock for a headstone but I'd love to visit someone with that red door, especially with the star cut out- two favorites, add a monogram and it would be the perfect spot!

The comparison is NOT valid and not needed- I LOVE your photos and I love how differently you two see the same thing! It is so interesting and wonderful to have multiple perspectives and yours is unique and amazing, so no more frustration! Keep shooting and sharing!

Price Cream Parlor said...

What great photos! What amazing photo cards you will have when you get home!!!

Esther said...

I love visiting cementaries...they bring me peace and tranquility believe or not.

There is no comparison, I think you both have some extraordinary talent and see things from a different perspective but just amazing pictures. You girls have some wonderful picture taking talent(s).

Michelle said...

It is always easier to appreciate the talents of others when it is not one you yourself possess - so keep repeating the mantra because you have a great eye!

I think this visit was very appropriate with Halloween around the corner. I just wish our Halloween decor in America was as charming as that cemetary.

Susan said...

I think I simply must have a momogramed tombstone!! I love it. I guess there wasn't one single one I didn't love...except, like you, the reclining image of the deceased with folded arms!!Not that one.

It looks like a perfectly creative place to stroll and I, like you, love the iron.

Not sure if I missed this part, but if those are your photos, what the heck are you talking about?!!
You're just silly.

Kristy said...

Oh Michelle.....Patsy and all the blogger moms have talking about your blog and all the awesome pictures of Paris you have posted. I finally had a chance tonight to check it out and WOW! Your pictures are beautiful!! You really do have an eye for photography and I LOVE your pictures! There are several of them I would blow up and put in my house! Thanks for sharing them!!

Charlotte said...

Oo what a fun Halloween-y thing to do! I think I'd love to spend autumn in Paris. I love autumn anyway, but from your photos, I think I need to experience a Parisian fall. I'm putting it on my list of things to do.

Erin said...

Your photo's always mezmorize me! Is that even how you spell it? Anyway, I love them. I feel like I am there when you take them and document such pleasing details.

Are you still scared of me after the weird Christmas drop in?

Miranda said...

monograms are all the more charming when paired with a perfectly aged metal bucket and aged lavender looking flowers! just gorgeous.

Miranda said...

Okay wait I have more to say...about photo jealousy: I feel like I'm always looking at other people's pictures and thinking about how they're so much better than mine. The angles, the close-ups, the framing, the lighting, the bokeh, you name it. You know who takes a lot of those pictures that I covet? Umm, YOU. Anyway, all this jealousy makes me feel worse and worse about my own pictures and unable to see the beauty in them. I wonder if I think other pictures are better than mine because I don't have expectations for their pictures? I never looked through their viewfinder...would I think the picture was less spectacular if I had? Does that make any sense? It's like the way that "behind the scenes" always sounds better than it looks. Okay I think I've lost it with this comment...your pictures are beautiful, and I'll write an email if I have more to say. :)

amy gretchen said...

Michelle I am a huge fan of old cemeteries and your post is full of beautiful captures. You are not giving yourself enough credit. Both of you (you and jill) have an amazing eye and what is so great is that both of you see different things in different ways. I love that.

Unknown said...

there was a very old cemetary behind my childhood home (not in france, but, eh...) we used to play hide and seek there, and revel at the oldness of it all.

i need to remember the mantra "the comparison is not valid at this time."

wende said...

what on earth are you talking about?! all of your photos from paris have been absolute eye candy for me! they make me giddy to read your latest installment. you have a wonderful eye. really. my favorite from this post...ok, i have too many, but i love the view of the mini cathedral. gorgeous. no more self doubting - i mean it!

Jill said...

I think it's so funny that we both experienced photo jealousy during this trip. I really had to keep myself from looking at your photos on the computer and from reading your blog (hello, I've been home almost 2 weeks and am just now catching up on these posts). I guess it's a good problem to have!

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